We’ll leave at 9…. Was a lie we knew we wouldn’t commit to. One thing about us bike packing is, it takes us some time to get moving in the morning.

A panicked “is it raining outside” … “oh no it’s just my eyes” it was finally time to head out and smother ourselves in bug spray.

35km to the start of Old Ghost Road on the road, up and down and corner after corner.

We biked alongside the mighty Buller river, which was a nice change of scenery from straight roads and bare hills (and cows).

Finally we arrived in sandfly heaven, aka Lyell, where the Old Ghost starts.

After a quick picture at the start, we were off straight into the climb. Today’s route was climb climb climb, with a little flatter section, then to hut number 1 of the day, where we would stop for a sandwich.

From the Lyell Hut, we climb once more out across the saddle to Ghost Lake Hut.

We were expecting it to be cold, as a friends brother had done the trail a couple of days ago and had snow, but it was anything but. We were sweating through our merino base layers.

Usually whilst we’re riding a particularly boring or tough ride, I play a game with my garmin (bike computer that tells me the route and distance) and I think it’ll be X kms then when it is, I’m happy. This game was scuppered as every KM along the route there was a marker and my goodness the K’s were slow going today. The combination of rocky terrain constant hill was a lot.

We had a few visitors join us for the ride, a pīwakawaka (sort of similar to a British blue tit, but with a gorgeous fan tail) and a few miromiro, who were super inquisitive.

Eventually we made it to the first hut for lunch, joined by some very nosy Weka who tried to open James’ snack pouch.

The km’s were slow going, it was already 2pm and we were only half way. Time to get going. Of course, straight back into the hill.

If I thought part 1 was tough, I was wrong. Part 2 was even tougher. The gravel was chunkier, the incline steeper, the flatter sections non-existent. It was less natural too, with man made chunks of rocks to ride over which were so grippy.

We had spent the whole trail so far under tree cover, so finally, when we made it to an opening it was gorgeous to see the valley floor beneath.

Back under the trees for a short time where the trail became more extreme, with sheer drop offs at the side.

Then open, across another saddle, and my goodness it was beautiful.

Passing sites such as Heavens Gate, and Tombstone, it gave you an idea how extreme of a location we were. The trail was rocky, but flowing, and once you got going so much fun to ride. Although at one point I was going a liiiiittle too quickly and went sideways around a corner. Time to turn it down a notch.

We finally made it to the hut, which was very fancy. Separate composting toilets, a bathhouse, a few separate tent sites and huts and one main hut with bunks where we were staying. Outside sweeping views of the valley below, even could see as far as Murchison where we had come from in the morning, with the clouds rolling in and out as quickly as if we were in Wellington.

Inside there there was a group of women trampers, and a group of younger women who thought their voice was the most important in the world.

One of the older ladies kindly pointed out they had boiled a big pot of hot water for the shower, and there was still some left that we could use, so it was a trip out to the bathhouse for us.

A quick shower, and it was back to the hut to make some dinner. On the menu was a sachet of tuna and a freeze dried sachet of chicken tika masala and rice.

We boiled up some water, partly hoping to drown out the loud voices in the hut, but sadly it didn’t work, but a cup of tea had to soften the blow instead.

Next to us at the table, was the group of older women who were doing camping right. They had a starter of grilled haloumi, hams, sausage, cheese and crackers. Then made up their main meals and sat outside to enjoy it. It looked pretty delish!

Dinner was polished off, now came the challenge of staying awake. We were both so tired, we even went for a walk to try to stay awake a bit longer, but at 7pm, with the dulcet tones of the group of younger women we head to bed.

I’m fully aware that being in bed at 7pm in a shared hut is early, but these people had clearly never had to use an inside voice in their life. They were SO FREAKIN’ LOUD.

I put a podcast on under my pillow and couldn’t even tell you what happened 5 minutes in as I was sound asleep.

James however didn’t have the joy of sharing my podcast, and thoroughly enjoyed the sound of an older Aussie guy who in James’ words ‘had a frog stuck in a trombone’ and was snoring so loud the guy was basically shaking the roof off the hut. Not such a wonderful night sleep would ensue…

Day 5 complete.

It’s good to be adventuring again.